Montreal is so much more than its old world architecture and love of wine and cheese. The Quebecois metropolis is bursting with enough joie de vivre to make just about anyone want to get out and explore its cobblestoned and pothole-ridden streets — and true Montrealers know that the city has its own unique identity and quirks that place it in a league all its own.

Spend a wine-fueled cinq à sept with a ghost at the city’s oldest bar. Get up close and personal with a life-like portrayal of Benito Mussolini. And go skating in the middle of the downtown core — any time of the year.

This guide comes as a love letter to Canada’s largest French-speaking city and everything it has to offer its residents and travelers. Visiting and full-time Montrealers alike will be pleasantly surprised by what can be discovered beyond the cobblestone and steeples if only you’re willing to take the side streets.